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Carreira is Portuguese, charismatic and sous-chefed at Andoni Luis Aduriz's Mugaritz in Spain, which is one of those world-beater types of place.

He came to London to cook with Nuno Mendes at Viajante and has also worked with James Lowe at Lyle's and Junya Yamasaki at Koya.

Verbal endearments were kept to variations on "cheers, mate" and the occasional "fair play".

But now all that has changed thanks to something called Bromance.

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It's that time of the year again: the biannual Boxer Show.You may recall that, once every six months or so, this critic has dinner with the most erudite, passionate and inspiring gastronome I have ever had the pleasure of sharing a table with.Then again, Jackson Boxer and I, being ancient comrades, have shared plenty else, too.The format is simple: I ask him what's new and must be tried in UK grub; he, in return, promises brutal honesty about what we're eating.And so to Leandro Carreira at Climpson's Arch in east London, whose alumni include Dave Pynt, now at the lauded Burnt Ends in Singapore, and Tomos Parry, who has since done remarkable things at Kitty Fisher's.I won't, therefore, feign expertise of Portuguese cooking.

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